Saturday, January 20, 2007

Kissin’ Cuzzins - St. Petersburg, Florida

My first visit to the 34th Street Kissin’ Cussins was almost 15 years ago. Even back then, it was already a tradition with my wife’s family, an occasional family ritual, a breakfast out at Kissin’ Cuzzins. I can’t think of a single visit over the years to the in-laws that hasn’t featured a visit to Cuszzins. Opened in 1961, Cuzzins was seemingly a regular place to stop for all the old timers. Business was good and the family opened two other Cuzzins, one on 4th Street and the other in Clearwater. The two new restaurants soon became victim to land prices. The cost of the land in growing Pimellas County became too great for a single business. Only the original Cuzzins on 34th Street remains. And that has met some challenges that may do it in. The neighborhood has changed. The old timers are fewer and stop by less often. There are now fast food outlet all along the street that siphon off customers. As a result, the Cuzzins has cut back hours. It is open for breakfast and lunch, closing at 2:00pm weekdays and 3:pm weekends. The food is just as good as it was back then and the dinner entrees are available for lunch.

The food is good. Certainly not the very best I’ve ever had but it is more than good enough to come back for. It is cooked well, served in a pleasing manner, and in adequate portions. But after you have been there once or twice you will find that the atmosphere is the thing. The staff quickly gets to know you by sight, and then your name. On the next visit for lunch, you will feel right at home, just like you belonged there.

My wife’s particular favorite is the chocolate chip pancakes. Pancakes with a bit of buckwheat flour, I believe, and the chocolate chips placed on top after cooking, melting and gooey from the heat of the pancake, not burnt on the hot griddle. It is served topped with swirls of whipped cream.

Creature of habit that I am, I usually get the same thing, eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast. I love the hash browns. Nice and crispy, golden brown on the outside and creamy smooth on the inside. The fry cooks in the back do a good job and eggs are cooked right to order, over medium, hard or scrambled.

On one occasion I had the chicken fried steak. It was a nice cut of cube steak, battered and fried. It was not at all greasy and the meat was tender with good flavor. The gravy was excellent.
Prices are moderate, $12.99 for a rib-eye steak and eggs combination is tops while most breakfast combinations are $6 or $7. The staff is friendly and courteous and most of them have been on the job for years, just waiting to greet you.

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